The processes involved when I make stuff: sculpting, programming, electronics, carving, moulding, etc. Mostly puppets, automata, sculpture, occasionally furniture, interactives, food, etc. Usually fairly detailed and image-led. Please reuse any ideas, tips, thoughts and approaches.
My current labour of love is to reconstruct my 1994 gargoyle chair into a new thronereal version with much better arm and back support. I have a special fondness for the original but I have to admit it has always looked much better than it felt to sit upon.
Here is the original chair as completed in 1994. It's one of my favourite things I have made.
Here's my first design sketch that shows how I was hoping to re-imagine it.
...and here's another more developed design.
Well, partly after. Here is where I am with it after a few weeks of work.
The amazingly tasty Uber Sheddage, in all its dark malty glory. I don't know exactly how strong this was, but estimated at about 15-20% ABV. This baby was made using fractional freezing in the traditional Eis Bock style. The original beer it was based upon was one called Sheddage.
Sheddage was already a delicious malty Bok-like beer. It had been brewed to a meaty 9% ABV already, so enriching it by freezing was bound to be dramatic.It had also deliberately only been lightly hopped, as it would be too bitter otherwise when turned into an Eisbier.
You can see the effect of concentrating the beer.
Sheddage (on the right) was a fairly dark amber sweet malty bock-style beer at 9% ABV. Three litres of Sheddage made just one litre of Uber Sheddage.
This probably doesn't mean it was 3 times as strong (which would have been 27%), but it was significantly sweeter, thicker and stronger. I think it was probably maybe about twice as strong, I'd guess at somewhere between 15 and 20% ABV
Fractional freezing is a way to remove water from a beer by freezing the beer, then straining off the alcoholic liquid that doesn't freeze, from the water crystals that do freeze.
Here is a 3 litre bottle of Sheddage in the freezer...
This was not completely filled to avoid it bursting.
Freezers chill down to about minus 15C to minus 20C. Perfect!
Here it is frozen solid after being left for 2 nights. Of course it was not completely solid. Only the water in the beer was frozen. The alcohol was not.
To get the juice out, the bottle was inverted and the juice left to drip out. I had bashed the bottle quite a lot with a hammer to break up the ice to help release the liquour...
Probably the best way to do this would be with a centrifuge, which is a project for another day, methinks...
The first runnings were really intense. In fact they probably were close to 27% ABV. As the collection went on, the ice started to warm and eventually some water will have come out too
You can see how the clear water ice is left behind...
Eventually I got a litre. It was obviously not just much stronger in alcohol. It was allso stronger and intense. The thickened and sweeter taste made it more like a strange malty liquour - delish!
I could have drunk it flat, but I like a bit of fizz, so I soda streamed it.
Such a useful device :)
Here it is, dark and delicious.
Foot note -
There is some debate over the legality of fractional freezing. It is generally assumed to be legal, but it is a grey area. It would definitely not be legal to sell it, but for home brew in your own home, it would be rather OTT to be pursued for this.
There are some health concerns about this but it is not likely to be more than just being stronger and concentrating any trace chemicals that can be present in the original beer in weaker concentrations.
Here is a lengthy and occassionally heated discussion on this matter...
For the chemical science, this experiment featured in the Journal of the Institute of Brewing from 1947 is interesting: http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1947.tb01328.x/epdf
Essery, R. E., Gane, R. and Morris, T. N. (1947), THE CONCENTRATION OF BEER BY FREEZING. Jnl Institute Brewing, 53: 204–208. doi: 10.1002/j.2050-0416.1947.tb01328.x
making a very specialist piece of kitchen equipment - a ham stand for a Serrano ham
a comparison of shop-bought versus hand-made carving knives
scrounging pugs being made to leap for their supper (shamefully merely that I can have a laugh!)
Here is a preposterously large ham. I was given this on leaving a job recently - one of the most thoughtful presents I've ever had. It is HUGE and weighs 6.5 kilos.
These hams need support when carving and hilariously, there is a specific traditional ham-stand for them. This post shows how I made one and then testing out various knives to see which carves the best. Finally, the greedy pug is shown mid-air attempting to grab ham slices from my fingers.
Here is the finished board. Also shown is a 14" (35cm) carving knife I made especially for this ham. Just realised I haven't written that up yet. It's cobbled crafted from a saw blade and a log - but that is for another post...
Making the ham board
These are pretty simple things - a solid plank for the base and an upright for the hoof, with a few metal fittings to finish it off, and thus... to the shed!
Happily I keep scavenged stuff that contains good raw materials for unknown future use. And so it was, that in the shed I found an oak drawer-front that I'd long ago salvaged from a fucked old chest of drawers. Base plank solved.
While at it, I removed these two rather good old-style handles. They in turn will sit in a drawer for years waiting for their moment...
I had a good oak piece for the upright - a plank, which a few years ago I'd cut off an old fence post found in a hedge. This was even better wood than the drawer, though a little worse for wear, having been out in the elements for decades as a post, and having had nails hammered into it and so on. Super strong though.
Here it is in the vice. You can see the curve for the foot rest (so to speak) prior to cutting.
To fix the upright to the plank I went for a double mortice and tenon joint. Super strong and no wobble. Here are the mortices, routed out.
They needed cleaning up and squaring off...
with a more traditional mortice chisel (note, only one bevel) ...
Here is the joint being tested for fit. Needed a mallet to get this in, and thus rock-solid
The final fit. So tight, no glue was required. You can see the colour difference between a fairly recent oak (maybe 25 old) and a very old weathered piece (possibly a century old) - much darker...
Next up were the final metal fittings. By convenient chance, I had just skipped a piece of stainless steel from outside my local fireplace shop. Out with the long-handled tin snips...
This bit is the former, for the leg holder on the bottom plank after cutting and filing...
It was quite soft, and thus easy to file, drill and shape. Here it is, being hammered into a curve, on the horn of the anvil...
And a similar piece was cut for the hoof-end top bar. The rather crude nails hold the leg in place and prevent turning as you carve...
The finished ham board in the shed...
And in the kitchen, with ham in position, alongside the ham carving knife...
Somewhat unnecessarily, I thought it would be good to see how well shop-bought and hand-made knives compare in effectiveness at carving. From top to bottom, here are:
14" (35cm) serrated ham carver I made from a saw and an ash log, especially for this ham
12" (30cm) Solingen-made carbon-steel specialist carver I bought decades ago
10" (25cm) ham carver I had made previously from a bike D-lock and an oak plank
10" (25cm) John Lewis serrated bread knife
...and the results were (drum roll)...
actually, pretty much the same. The longer blades edged it (sorry) over the shorter ones slightly - as they allow a much longer languorous cut, but the real result was that cutting thin slices is much more dependent on technique (assuming your knives are all equally sharp).
This ham is so big, I'll be eating it for ages (a few days minimum - ha ha)
Someone else was interested in eating it too. I was touched by trusty pug Betty's willingness to help out. Her concern for objective comparison of ham slicers merited some offcuts.
Who am I to resist those eyes?
So, in the spirit of sharing, we shared the trimmings cut in the test
Still, I confess I did make her jump for her supper...
Made from recycled and foraged materials, with the time spent restricted to a day (well, 7.5 hours)
This was a leaving pressie for my ex-colleagues, when I got a new job.
They like cake a lot, and they are good at sharing it, BUT were always faffing about trying to divvy it up with things found in the pathetic utensil "collection" in the staff kitchen drawers.
Now, if you love cake, you should embrace and enjoy the ritual of cutting and serving it just as much as eating it.
And so, a dedicated office cake slice seemed a perfectly appropriate parting gift.
As it happens, personally I'm pretty indifferent to cake, but I do love toolmaking, so everyone's a winner...
I wanted this to be an enjoyably functioning tool, so that cake cutting and serving became more ritualistic than it is when just using an inadequate and/or unsatisfactory knife in a drawer as an afterthought.
In addition, to make it more fun I restricted this build thus:
the raw materials had to be either recycled or foraged
the finished product should not be finished too much, so that it would be possible to see how it had been made
I time boxed the build to a single working day (well, 7.5 hours in total) to make decision making more challenging.
I extended this to a second time boxed one-day build by making a presentation box. That's for another post though...
Making the blade (about 3 hours)
Choice of steel was important. A slice needs to be super thin, flexible, stainless and be able to hold a keen edge. After scouring my shed for metal objects, I eventually realised that a saw blade would be perfect for this. Conveniently I had just replaced my handsaw which was 10 years old and not as keen as it used to be.
Bingo - steel found!
So, fare thee well, old trusty saw. A new life awaits thee...
The outline of the cake slice blade was drawn out on the old saw blade with a trusty Sharpie
This was then hacked out roughly using the angle grinder with a diamond tipped cutting blade. Sparks flew of course...
Here it is, half way through initial cutting out
Once the shape was cut out rough, it was ground down to the final shape on an inverted belt sander with a rough grit belt (80 grit, in fact)
And once cut to shape it was ground thinner using progressively finer grit (180 was the finest I had).
Eventually a nice whippy blade was made. In this photo, it is ground, but not polished
I then merely had to bend the blade twice to get the required final shape. This should be done on an anvil by heating the blade to red heat in a forge, but given my time contraint, I thought I'd use a blowtorch instead
Sadly, that failed to heat evenly and the blade snapped when trying to fold it.
To stick to the time box restraint, I decided to just weld it back together! So out came this baby...
And of course, the great thing about welding is that you get to dress up like a serial killer.
Leatherface, eat your heart out...
Grips helped keep the blade in position
After welding it back together, the blade looks pretty rough. Here, Betty pug is looking baffled. That is nothing to do with the blade. She always looks baffled (and usually is baffled).
NB - pet health and safety - pugs should be excluded when arc welding
After that, I ground it down smooth on the belt sander.
Then came a LOT of polishing. This was done on the random orbit sander starting with 120 grit and eventually going down to 240 grit. The handle shown here is not the final handle. It is just a temporary one used to hold the metal more safely.
Making a handle from foraged wood (about 2 hours)
This is a log scavenged from woods on the Chilterns. It is one of many logs left lying about after foresters had been thinning out ash trees. Ash trees self-seed really successfully so there were lots to be found. This was strapped to the back of the bike and taken home.
Ash is also a traditional wood used for tool handles because it is tough and shock-resistant and doesn't split. This log had been lying about for about a year when I retrieved it and I left it in my shed for another year or so before it was used, so it was more or less seasoned. A bit green, but ash doesn't split easily, so that was OK.
Ash is a really easy wood to work and has quite a nice grain. I also cut the handle out at a slight diagonal so the grain would be more prominent.
The log was roughed square with a power plane and hand planes, then this beautiful draw knife was used to start to form the final shape. This was done by eye until roughly the main shape
Then it was more finely carved using these two hand made chisels. The one on the left is a low profile gouge that is useful for carving curves. It is one I have modified from a flat standard bench chisel. The one on the right is a convex edged flat chisel that I invented. It is made from an old file. (files use the same high carbon steel as chisels and are easy to get hold of, for virtually nothing.)
I normally use it to do stop cuts when woodcarving. This is to match the curve of the concave inside of the blade of a gouge. In this case the slightly pointed corners also allow you to get into little corners to trim off subtle amounts of wood when shaping.
After carving the basic handle former, the fine finish is done back on the belt sander. This will file down wood even faster than metal. In this shot you can see my carving mallet, that used to be a wooden lawnmover roller. It's super heavy, lignum vitae I think. The handle I carved from a piece of beech.
Once the handle was almost finished, it was time to cut a slot for the handle. I didn't start final shaping until the blade was in place, so that the handle and blade merge into one seamless join in the handle.
Here it is before riveting and final shaping. You can see the handle is not yet fully formed and the blade tang is wider than it ends up.
Riveting the handle to blade (no time at all)
The handle rivet was simply a small coach bolt found in the road. Using a coach bolt is handy as its square shank end locks it in place in the wooden handle.
The blade was inserted into the handle slot and drilled in place to align the holes. Then using the mini anvil on this metalworking vice, I riveted the two together by inserting the bolt through and hammering the threaded end into a rivet head.
...using this lovely heavy lump hammer
Finishing (about 2 and a half hours)
As the slice was now in one piece, to finish off the sanding meant holding the blade. I prefer not to use gloves for finer control, but the flipside of that is you do get a few nicks when the blade judders. Occasional you sand your knuckles too. This is normal. You just develop quick reactions to pull your hand back and/or drop things in a hurry if you need to.
Here is the almost finished handle, post-sanding, but pre-cleaning of all the blood!
Cleaned up, the handle looks like this. The rivet has been sanded flush with the handle and the blade edges honed back to the wood.
Although gloves off is better, when fine polishing the metal blade, the friction makes it super hot, so gloves are unavoidable unless you want to burn off your fingerprints (tip - best avoided)
After fine grinding, the blade edge was honed smooth and sharp with an Arkansas stone. This is a super-fine, super-hard natural stone that I normally use to sharpen chisels.
After a lot of polishing on the orbital sander, the final polishing of the blade (both its flat and its edge) is done on a leather strop impregnated with emery paste (super fine grit in a waxy paste). This is the stuff that barbers use on their long leather strops to hone cut-throat razors.